Welcome to the 3rd season of Magazine St. Kitchen Presents Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal. In this highly anticipated premiere episode, Gauri sits down with Dylan Eitharong, the charismatic chef-owner of Haawm in Bangkok, often regarded as the bad boy of Thailand’s culinary scene. Dylan’s unique journey from America to Thailand is nothing short of fascinating, making this a must-listen for anyone passionate about food, travel, and culture.
Born to a Thai father and an American mother, Dylan made a life-changing decision in 2019 to move to Thailand, initially to pursue love. However, this romantic adventure soon turned into a culinary mission. Starting with an Airbnb at his aunt's house, Dylan found himself consulting for restaurants and teaching cooking classes when the pandemic struck. This led to the creation of Haawm, a supper club that quickly became a hit in Bangkok’s dining scene.
The name "Haawm" is particularly meaningful— it translates to “smell” in Thai and sounds like “home,” perfectly capturing the essence of Dylan’s approach to food. His cooking is unapologetically Thai, yet entirely his own, combining traditional recipes with his unique, bold flair. In this episode, Dylan opens up about overcoming imposter syndrome while living in America, where he struggled to present his dishes as authentically Thai. But once he returned to Thailand, he embraced his roots, cooking traditional recipes with a personal twist that truly represents his identity.
Dylan’s supper club at Haawm has attracted a diverse clientele, with guests often forgetting that they are dining in a home rather than a traditional restaurant. His unapologetic and raw style of cooking has resonated with the older Thai generation, who appreciate his dedication to using locally sourced ingredients. However, his unconventional approach has been met with mixed reactions from younger, affluent Thais who are more accustomed to modern, quick-service dining.
As the conversation unfolds, Gauri and Dylan delve into the pressures of the culinary world, discussing the impact of prestigious awards and lists like Asia’s 50 Best and the Michelin Guide. Dylan critiques the trend of restaurants focusing more on accolades than on the quality of their food, a practice he believes is detrimental to the Thai food industry. He also shares his belief that chefs should be present in their kitchens, rather than just lending their names to dishes without being involved in the cooking process.
The episode concludes with a lighter discussion about Dylan’s extensive collection of tattoos, each with its own unique backstory. He also shares his love for Bombay, his second favourite city after Bangkok, and his fondness for Baghdadi in Colaba, a restaurant that reminds him of home.
Don’t miss this captivating episode as Gauri and Dylan explore the intersections of food, culture, and personal expression in the culinary world. Tune in for an insightful conversation that is sure to resonate with foodies, travellers, and anyone interested in the art of authentic cooking.