What does it take to build amazing pizza in a city obsessed with tradition—and why does Middlebrow refuse to use the same dough for all their pies?
In this episode, we visit Bungalow by Middlebrow in Chicago to talk with head baker Tucker and chef de cuisine Caroline Santi. They walk us through their dough process—from fermentation and shaping to topping and baking—and explain why intention, balance, and a little funk make all the difference. We also break down one of their most unique pizzas, layer by flavorful layer.
Highlights:
00:00 – The Salt Debate – Why some Chicago pizzerias don’t season their dough
00:45 – Meet Tucker – How he joined Middlebrow and what drives his sourdough obsession.
01:07 – Inside the Commissary – Scaling up with purpose and the equipment that makes it possible.
03:19 – Strength in the Fold – How dough folding supports structure and temperature control.
04:01 – The Importance of Pre-Shaping – And how it improves stretch and consistency.
05:00 – Weekly Dough Rhythm – Making 1,000 dough balls across three bake days.
06:02 – Fish Boxes for Dough? – The practical (and sustainable) reason behind it.
07:03 – Playing with Flour – Using local wheat, Caputo, and adapting to seasonal changes.
08:14 – Flavor First – Why they use 3% salt and develop dough over several days.
08:43 – Poolish + Sourdough – The blend that brings flavor and fermentation balance.
09:04 – One Dough Per Style – Why every pizza deserves its own dough formula.
11:05 – Caroline Cooks – Breaking down their veggie special, from dough to bake.
12:00 – Summer Volume Spike – Going from 800 to 2,000 pies when the patio opens.
14:12 – Dough Stretching Tips – Less stress, better shape, and respecting the dough.
17:50 – Bake Strategy – Hotter stones, better bottom crusts, and proper resting.
20:17 – What’s Good Dough? – Final thoughts on balance, feel, and trust in the process.
21:11 – Taste Test – Alpine cheese, mustard, pickles—and the great olive debate.
24:45 – Slice Game – How they prep pizzas for reheat while preserving texture.
26:14 – Why It’s Worth It – Reflection on team, growth, and the joy of the craft.
Check out Bungalow By Middlebrow here:https://www.middlebrowbeer.com/https://www.instagram.com/middle__brow/?hl=en
Thank you to our show sponsors:
Corto Olive Oil:
https://2ly.link/260Rf
Bacio Cheese:
https://2ly.link/260Ri
Shot By Tristan Marr + Alexia Refil
DM @whatsgooddough
https://www.instagram.com/whatsgooddough/
email me: eidref@whatsgooddough.com
Topics:
Middlebrow Chicago, Bungalow by Middlebrow, sourdough pizza, artisan pizza Chicago, Chicago pizza scene, pizza dough fermentation, how to make pizza dough, tavern-style pizza, pizza stretching techniques, sourdough pizza crust, poolish vs sourdough, pizza dough hydration, local grain flour, Chicago pizzeria, pizza baking tips, fish boxes for dough, pizza reheating techniques, Caroline Santi pizza, Tucker Middlebrow, behind the scenes pizzeria, best pizza in Chicago, pizza kitchen workflow, pizza fermentation process, veggie pizza recipe, Alpine cheese blend pizza, how to build pizza flavor, sustainable pizzerias, pizza oven tips, how to run a pizzeria, intentional baking, crust development tip
18 m