Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles are expanding worldwide — from France and the EU to Kenya, the Netherlands and California. But implementing EPR isn't just about government policy; it's also funding and infrastructure needed for textile collection, sorting, and recycling. In this episode of Suited, we explore how circular fashion must operate within a dual market. Take Kenya, for example — a country that Business Insider Africa reported in March 2025 is the largest importer of second-hand clothes in Africa. Here, textile waste streams from two different sources — local apparel manufacturing for both domestic consumption and export, and the secondhand clothing trade.

Joining us are Sarah Njau, Managing Director of GFS East Africa, and Elmar Stroomer, Founder of Africa Collect Textiles. Together, we tackle critical questions: When does secondhand clothing become textile waste? What happens to fabric offcuts from factories in Kenya producing garments for global brands? And how do we go from EPR policy to building infrastructure in the regions most impacted by textile waste?

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