Doug
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All for a Few Perfect Waves
- The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
- De: David Rensin
- Narrado por: Sean Runnette
- Duración: 19 h y 33 m
- Versión completa
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General4.5 out of 5 stars 30
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Narración:4.5 out of 5 stars 25
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Historia4.5 out of 5 stars 25
For 20 years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers - a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974.
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2 out of 5 stars
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Disappointing
- De L. Fogelquist en 02-16-22
- All for a Few Perfect Waves
- The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
- De: David Rensin
- Narrado por: Sean Runnette
On his own terms
Revisado: 10-07-21
Engrossing story of a gifted individual who lived life completely on his own terms which put him apart from conventional society’s standards in every way.
Loved and hated he travelled the world to surf perfect empty waves and ski big slopes and court beautiful women to enjoy life every day by whatever means it took
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A Brief History of Surfing
- De: Matt Warshaw
- Narrado por: James Patrick Cronin
- Duración: 3 h y 9 m
- Versión completa
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General4 out of 5 stars 46
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Narración:4 out of 5 stars 40
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Historia4 out of 5 stars 41
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet, as evidenced by The History of Surfing, Warshaw's definitive take on the sport. Now he has honed that book into an abridged and excerpted edition for surfers everywhere. Each spread features a micro essay alongside an image capturing a slice of surf history, from Kelly Slater and the invention of the thruster to shark attacks and localism. A Brief History of Surfing deftly defines surf culture in an entertaining and irresistible volume with wide appeal.
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4 out of 5 stars
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Mixed Feelings
- De Doug en 09-24-21
- A Brief History of Surfing
- De: Matt Warshaw
- Narrado por: James Patrick Cronin
Mixed Feelings
Revisado: 09-24-21
As an East Coast surfer for 60 years there was nothing new for me in this intensively researched book by Matt Warshaw.
What bothered me were some glaring omissions.
Among these : where is mention of Florida’s Mike Tabling ? Probably the best East Coast surfer of the 60’s ( not the obnoxious self promoting Gary Proper)and our version of the West Coast’s Mike Doyle who is also overlooked.As for the women, no mention of Rell Sunn is sacrilege , and where is Frida Zamba? Probably the best surfer ever to
come out of Florida until Kelly Slater arrived on the scene
Minor gripes would include some explanation of what makes good surf( are the words “ offshore winds” ever mentioned?)
No mention of the great surf to be found in Central America or at Puerto Escondido
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