AmazonianJ
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Kook
- What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- De: Peter Heller
- Narrado por: Mike Chamberlain
- Duración: 10 h y 9 m
- Versión completa
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General4 out of 5 stars 97
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Narración:4 out of 5 stars 79
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Historia4 out of 5 stars 79
Having resolved to master a big - hollow wave - that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
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1 out of 5 stars
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Narrator....
- De Jimmy P en 12-14-17
- Kook
- What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- De: Peter Heller
- Narrado por: Mike Chamberlain
Disappointing
Revisado: 09-30-16
If you'd like to listen to a good book on surfing check out William Finnegan's "barbarian days: a surfing life" because this book is simply not worth your time. Its uninspiring tone and stereotypical oversimplification of the sport of kings was disappointing.
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